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PROPOSED TOUR TO THE FALSET WINE FAIR 2006 Brief Introduction When I was Chairman of CARTA, I arranged for our annual conference to be held in Tarragona. I fell in love with that city, which has the finest Roman ruins outside of Rome. My contact, ALBERT FOLCH, became aware of my love of wine and told me I hadn’t drunk wine until I drunk the Priorat. I recently spent three of the most fascinating days in the Priorat with Albert and colleagues tasting quite delicious, and I mean delicious, wines. Every wine area is unique but, the Priorat is the most unique wine area I’ve been to. It is also the most beautiful. History Priorat has an ancient history as a wine region. The DOC Priorat (which comprises both the Priorat and Montsant wine areas) makes up the old historic centre of the Priorat which was governed by the Carthusian Priory of Scala Dei (originally built in the 12th century), which was the first of its kind on the Iberian Peninsular. It is a rugged region of steep slopes, slate soils and old vineyards. Priorat was originally known for its unattractively tough, dark and highly alcoholic red wines. In the mid 80’s, a group of adventurous wine pioneers ~ ALVARO PALACIOS, JOSE LUIS PEREZ, RENE BARBIER and CARLES PASTRANA ~ came to Gratallops and revolutionised the way wine was made. The area had been hit by phylloxera (an American bug I’ve since come to know) which greatly affected the Grenache varietal. People turned to the Carignan grape as it was easier to grow with higher yielding. Though it produces fewer wines than Rioja and Ribera Del Duero, is average quality is very much higher. Old vine Grenache and Carignan, blended with international varieties such as Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, and often aged in new French oak, deliver wines of extraordinary power and complexity. CARLES PASTRANA'S first vintage of Clos D’Obac made it to the top 150 wines of the world. The thing that impressed me through my three day visit was the tremendous consistency of the quality even when you were drinking wines of 10 euro a bottle. Another thing I liked was that the restaurant wine mark-up was nowhere near as high as in the UK. I actually bought wine in a restaurant cheaper than in a wine merchants. I then bought more! Terroir Quite amazing! Llicorella (black slate) is the main soil of which there are seven different types. As most of the vineyards are on terraces (with two lines of vines), you can see the soil structure. It is amazing as almost every few feet, the direction of the slate changes. I have never seen more interesting soil. The very distinct advantage of the Llicorella is that you can drink the wine when it is very young as it does not have aggressive tannins. Or, you can wait 50, yes 50, years as it matures. Now you are beginning to see why Priorat is different. The terraces remind you of the Rhone and the Douro. Some of the varietals are similar – Grenache (Red and White), Carignan and Syrah as well as many local indigenous varietals like Parallada, Xarel-Lo, and Macebeo. The scenery was certainly some of the most stunning I have ever seen. Priorat is in a hilly valley surrounded by mountains. Villages sit atop the hills as if glued on to them. Very mediaeval. Most of them have only two entrances/exits. Most of the roads are so narrow, you can’t fit a car! When you go off the main roads, it’s a twist and a turn every few metres. The main roads are better – every 15-20 metres. Well it seemed like that when I was driving. This time, I’ll be able to enjoy the scenery. DAY ONE ~ Wednesday, 26th May Depart Gatwick Airport on flight BA2486 at 09:20. Arrive Barcelona and head down the motorway to Penedes. Visit two sparkling wineries to compare the difference between a major operation, such as Codorniu (www.codorniu.es) and a smaller producer. Our wine guide, RACHEL RITCHIE, has lived locally for many years. We’ll have a welcoming reception in the evening. I hope EBEN SADIE can make it. He has an extraordinary passion and could accurately be described as one of the most enterprising winemaking young Turks! I know him through my very good friend, ANDRE BADENHORST, who used to run Constantia Uitsig. His son, ADI, is the dynamic winemaker at Rustenberg – a huge job for such a young man. I tasted the best collection of South African wines there in November. A completely new approach to SA wines with dramatically increased flavour, taste, palate and power. Hugely delicious. Because of Adi’s love of Southern Rhone varietals, he went to the Priorat in October where Sadie makes brilliant wine at Dits del Terra. Hopefully, he’ll be in Spain when we’re there. If not, I’ll get somebody else to lead the tasting. Dinner will have wine specially selected to match with food at the fantastic Hotel/Restaurant Cal Llop, due to open in November, to include wines from the Capafons-Osso (www.capafons-osso.com), Odysseus (www.vinedosdeithaca.com) and Mas Doix. Each of the bedrooms is different as the hotel comprises four old houses. As it only has 9 rooms, we are limited to 18 people. DAY TWO ~ Thursday, 27th May After breakfast, we’ll taste at the Conreira d'Scala Dei (www.scaladei.org). JORDI VIDAL is the winemaker producing some stunning wines at Conreria. He has made a big impression on ROBERT PARKER as he judged his Les Brugeres 2003 at 92 points. It is made from 100+ year old single vineyard White Grenache grapes with six months in new American oak. It will have you salivating. I’ve also drunk his Iugiter red which has 85% Grenache , 10% Cabernet + 5% Carignan. Also nectar. We’ll drink the other white Nona, 100% White Grenache but three months in French oak as well as the red Laudes which has 65% Grenache and 35% Cabernet. CARLES PASTRANA owns Clos d’Obac, Costers del Siurana (www.costersdelsiurana.com). He is an engaging, charismatic man who is passionate about his wine. Despite being one of the best known local wine people, he has time for everybody. He is also highly professional, as displayed by the individual wine mats he produced for us when we tasted his superb collection of Miserer, which is a blend of 27% Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon and Temperanillo, 10% Carignan and Syrah aged in French oak. Kyrie is a delectably dry white blend of 35% White Grenache and Macabeo with 30% Xarel.Lo and 5% Moscatel de Alexandria aged for 6 months in new French oak. At our tasting, the wine had been decanted at 09:00 that morning. We tasted at 18:30 that evening and it was still magnificent. The Clos d’Obac is a beautifully clean blend of 35% Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon with 10% of each of Syrah, Merlot and Carignan. Aged for 12 months in new French oak. If you thought the above were interesting, wait to taste the Dolc d’Obac, a delightful blend of Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah from one vineyard with an unusual microclimate which allows the grapes to become fully ripe without any danger of botrytis – similar to Amarone in Italy. It is a beautiful red sweet wine more suited to cheese than desserts. These will be followed by a late lunch at the Cellers de Gratallops Restaurant. We ate there and can confirm it is quite lovely ~ wines are at merchant price. It is owned by Carles Pastrana, and we we will taste some of his other wines. The rest of the day is free. LLUIS RIERA, the ceramicist and a friend of Carles Pastrana, has a workshop in the old co-operative building in Gratallops where we will try and arrange a visit. The area of the Priorat makes outstandng extra virgin olive oils of the Arbequine variety. The Olive Oil Producer’s Association of the Priorat invite you to a proper commentated olive oil tasting at the hotel before dinner. I’ve done one and found it fascinating. DAY Three ~ Friday, 28th May Breakfast will be followed by mid morning tasting at magnificent Buil & Gine Vineyard which is in an absolute magnificent setting. It was only 1996 when they decided to make wine here. Their winery was only opened in June 2004. It is a classic example of gravity feed as you descend from the top where the grapes are received and then four floors later, there is the storage. What I particularly liked about Buil and Gine, apart from their exceptional views and brilliant winery, was their commercial approach - they have built conference and dining rooms with a kitchen to increase their number of visitors. We’ll have lunch here which may be out in the open overlooking the vineyards, subject to Mr Weather. Hopefully, we’ll taste all their wines during our visit. They have three from Priorat, two from Montsant (more about that region later), one each from Rueda and Toro. Gine Gine is their premium brand, a blend of Grenache and Carignan using 50% old vines and 50% new vines (6/20 years old). As with all Priorat wines, it is quite alcoholic at between 13.5 to 14 degrees. The Joan Gine Gine has some Cabernet Sauvignon added to give it that difference as well as being aged in French and American oak. Their third Priorat wine is Pleret which has Merlot and Syrah added. I tasted the Nosis which I really enjoyed as well as a Rose based on Grenache – my favourite grape for rose having fallen in love with GEOFF MERRILL’S. I didn’t taste the others. Our second tasting will be at Clos Mogador which is literally the far side of the concrete wall from Clos d’Obac. RENE BARBIER is one of the four founding fathers of this area. As with all great winemakers, he has his own style and his unique style is that he uses an olive press which has the effect of only extracting half of the amount of juice that a typical wine press would produce. In theory, the wine is 50% more concentrated. His three top wines are obviously Clos Mogador which is 35% each Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Syrah and 10% Carignan. They are aged in French oak. The second wine is Clos Manyetes with 70% Carignan, 20% Grenache and 5% each Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. 14 months in French oak. The third wine is the Clos Nelin Joven – a 14º white with 50% White Grenache, 30% Viognier and 20% Pinot Noir. His son, also RENE BARBIER, runs a restaurant, Irreductibles, in Gratallops which we might go to tonight. Our guide, RACHEL, contributes the following. “An interesting anecdote to mention if you go to the Irreductibles restaurant is that René Barbier junior is married (I am not sure officially) to Sara Pérez, another celebrity in the Priorat wine world and daughter of J.L. Pérez, one of the Priorat pioneers of the late 80s and early 90s. It’s a bit like Dynasty or Dallas here”!! DAY FOUR ~ Saturday, 29th May When we’ve finished breakfast, we’ll depart to Falset where we check in to the Hostal Sport where we’ll stay for the next two nights. The FALSET WINE FAIR starts at 11:00. Each person will have eight vouchers for eight separate tastings. We’ll have lunch in the private room at Celler de l’Aspic where we will taste a range of co-operative wines. Each person is specially invited to the selective tasting which takes place at 17:00. Evening free. DAY FIVE ~ Sunday, 30th May You can purchase more tasting tickets at the Fair. At 11:00, there is a cookery exhibition in the Carrer de la Font Vella. Visit the Falset-Marçà wine cooperative in Falset when you freely wander around the winery – it may be worth adding it to your info about the wine fair. The building dates back to 1919 and was designed by an Art Nouveau architect, friend and pupil of Antoni Gaudí. At 19:00, the Mayor of Falset, JAUME DOMENECH I JORDA, invites our group to a tasting of his ten favourite Montsant wines – he is also Chairman of DO Montsant. Later, we will host a special dinner called The Winemaker’s Dinner where the DOC Priorat and the DO Montsant will invite two winemakers from each area to present their wines which will compliment the food. The winemakers, who would be our guests, will describe their wines. DAY SIX ~ Monday, 31st May Check out of our accommodation and arrive at Spain’s leading wine company, Torres, at 11:00. We will have a tour of the very impressive winery including the new facility they have constructed for dealing with single vineyard wines – most impressive. You’ll also enjoy the Tunnel of the Seasons exhibit. I hope to arrange entry to their private museum before we go for lunch at their private dining facility, Mas Ribell, where the chef has trained at Spain’s most famous restaurant, I Bulli. You’ll enjoy a different wine with every course. I have dined here twice and the food is very good, as are the wines. I could not think of a more suitable place to finish our very special visit to Catalunya. Then it is on to Barcelona Airport and the BA 2489 which departs at 18:00 flying you home to Gatwick. You can extend your stay in Tarragona, Reus (a fantastic city with amazing Gaudi-esque architecture) or wherever. If you’d like something very different but eminently enjoyable, take a two-night cooking course with the unforgettable ALICIA at Catacurian (www.catacurian.com). She has a beautiful house with three gorgeous bedrooms in Mas Roig. An excellent cook, engaging company, your complete enjoyment. Please call me for details. The price, per person, is £898 and is inclusive of:
IF YOU ARE INTERESTED IN ACCOMPANYING EDWIN ON THIS WINE TOUR, CLICK HERE |
 Penedes and Tarragona  The Priorat Region  Viella Baixa  Codorníu  La Conreria D'Scala Dei  Restaurant Cellers de Gratallops  Priorat Olives  Buil & Gine wines  Clos Mogador  Falset  Catacurian ~ Food  Catacurian ~ Dining |
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