Amalfi Coast

Friday, 27 October
British Airways smoothly delivered our group to Naples, where, upon arrival, we were met by Agnello, our driver for the duration. A stocky Neopolitan with a passion for Limoncello and life, he entertained us all the way to Ravello. As we passed over the top of the Amalfi Coast, the Gulf of Salerno opened up beneath us ~ we had arrived in the land of the Azzure Grottas, breathtaking views and lofty heights. Following a divine lunch beside the magical infinity pool at the Hotel Caruso, the ever-exuberant Janet Gallesio, PR Manager at the Caruso, then took us on an impressive tour of the hotel's ancient halls decked in original frescoes, the bar which seems suspended above the sea, various room types (all neutrally decorated with antique touches) and the great dining room.

The late afternoon was spent sauntering through Ravello, soaking up the tranquil ambience and popping in and out of the little ceramic shops.

As dusk fell and thousands of twinkling lights began to illuminate the rocky coast, we basked in the outdoor heated pool at the Palazzo Sasso, cleared our sinuses in the steam room and rejuvenated in the jacuzzi.

Dinner was taken in Rosselini's, the Sasso's 2-Michelin starred restaurant. The food, wine, service and attention to detail were faultless.

Saturday, 28 October
We had breakfast on the terrace at the Sasso, where we were joined by Aaron Kaupp, the General Manager. He gave us a useful rundown of all the work they have planned for the low season. Key renovations include the complete renovation of ten Mountain View bathrooms. Antonio Moscovio, Head of Reservations, then gave us a super site tour allowing us to see a selection of rooms, including sea view suites and inter-connecting family rooms.

A swift transfer then whisked us down to the Santa Catarina in Amalfi, 20 minutes drive from Ravello. After a cordial welcome by the Manager, Signor di Palma, we were shown our stunning rooms. We were accommodated in Deluxe Sea View rooms, however, each one was different from the other. No. 25 is a corner room, with two huge windows, the most decadent circular jacuzzi bath with a sea view but a small terrace. No. 22 is a comparable size, but with a smaller bathroom but one of largest terraces the hotel offers. No. 21 is just like no. 22 but with a terrace half the size of its neighbour. Rooms 21 - 25 had all been renovated and modernised for the 2006 season.

Lunch was enjoyed in the glorious sunshine trap of Amalfi's pretty piazza. While we tasted various local dishes, we were lucky enough to have a front-row view of a full scale Italian wedding taking place in the Duomo.

As the sun beat down, we headed to the Santa Catarina for a dip in the hotel's seawater pool, sunbathing on the man-made beach and snorkelling in the crystal clear sea. All the above are reached by what is arguably the Amalfi Coast's most impressive lift ~ it transcends through the cliff with panoramic views out over the Gulf of Salerno.

Positano, or more specifically the legendary Poseidon, was to host our Saturday night on the Costeria. The transfer from Amalfi takes about 30 minutes and can be easily done in a local taxi. A hearty and delectable dinner, hosted on the terrace at the Poseidon, was followed by what proved to be the most insightful, entertaining and enlightening post-dinner drinks of the trip. Monica Aonza, who owns and runs the hotel with her equally 'what you see is what you get' brother, Marco, relayed tales of the hotel's family history, their philosophy of always having a mix of nationalities filling the hotel and their intolerance when it comes to Russians ...

As the fireworks burst overhead and dawn began its sublime approach, Monica's personal driver whisked us back to the Santa Caterina, where we all collapsed into our luxurious beds.

Sunday 29 October
The bougainvillea-covered sea view terrace shaded our breakfast at the hotel, which was then followed by a very educational site tour. We saw various suites, junior suites and standard rooms (which were huge) and the Villa Santa Caterina, a separate property, two minutes walk from the main hotel along through the lemon groves. The Villa is often requested by past clients who prefer utter relaxation away from the communal areas of the main hotel.

A prompt transfer to Capri, along and over the Amalfi peninsular to Sorrento, where we jumped onto a 25 minute hydrofoil (Euro 12 + Euro 2 per suitcase) to Capri. On arrival, our bags were taken care of by a porter from the Capri Palace and we took the short funicular up to Capri town. Passing through the famous Piazzetta and along the main shopping street, lined with Prada, Gucci and Armani, we sauntered into the Quisisana, one of Capri's most glitzy hotels. Lunch was taken by the pool in La Columbaia restaurant, and then worked off with a site tour of the hotel.

A local taxi took us up the winding ascent to Anacapri (4 kms, approx Euro 15). As we entered the Capri Palace, we walked through the wafting muslin curtains and were instantly transported into the calm and restful flow for which the hotel is renowned. Rosa Mazzalini, the Sales Co-ordinator, met us as soon as we stepped into the cool and chic lobby. She remained our guide and delightful dining partner for our stay.

During our site tour we saw an excellent selection of rooms, including the Miro Suite. The hotel has three art suites ~ Miro, Kandinsky and Mondrian, all containing copies of the artist's work, painted by Condotti, one of Italy's most famous contemporary artists, as well as the Megatron Suite on the 4th floor, which is more like an apartment complete with a kitchen (where the head chef will cook for you), rooftop pool, running machine and two bedrooms. We also saw various Classic and Deluxe Rooms, some of which had sea views, while others had private pools.

Before dinner we had the chance to use all the facilities ~ the fully equipped gym, the Beauty Farm, the outdoor heated pool and, of course, our very own pools. I had the Warhol Suite, one of the hotel's newest 2-room/2 bathroom suites whose walls are adorned with prints of Elizabeth Taylor and Heinz Cream of Tomato soup cans! One of the rooms was one of the corner Sea View Classic rooms, which affords spectacular views, while one of the other Deluxe rooms had a private pool. We all sampled the pastry chef's delights as a wonderfully tempting selection of Michelin-starred pastries are brought to the room just before your arrival.

Aperitifs in the Bar degli Artisti were followed by a tour of the hotel's wine celler, conducted by the Sommelier. Rosa then hosted us for dinner in L'Olivio, the hotel's Michelin-starred restaurant. Again, a delicious and innovative menu complemented by a service that was discreet but pandering to every need.

Monday 30 October
Breakfast, again in L'Olivio restaurant, was followed by various signature treatments in the Beauty Farm. The spa is famous for its Leg School treatments ~ we had three taken consecutively: the mud wrap, menthol bandages and Kneipp Pool Therapy. After a few yelps and much giggling, we all felt as light as feathers. The treatment's fundamental purpose is to improve circulation.

A tour of the Grotta Azzura rounded off the morning and preceeded our final transfer back to Naples Airport.

As they say, 'all good things must come to end'!