Day 1:
Flight with Japan Air Lines into Tokyo.

Day 2:
On arrival at Tokyo, we checked into our accommodation, aptly named the Tokyo Inn, situated in the Asakusa district. Compact is the word that springs to mind when describing our room, having no wardrobe but two beds, two TV’s (!), a hairdryer and shampoos etc, with the bathrooms in the basement. This accommodation would be well-suited for business visitors. After getting our bearings, we had dinner with the group and the tour guide.

Day 3:
We declined the optional tour to the fish district with a sushi breakfast, due to the 5 am start. Instead, we breakfasted on cold rice, miso soup, pickles and green tea, which is the standard fare in these hotels. We took a boat to the town centre via the Hama Gardens, a typical example of the famous gardens of the Edo period, and then a walking tour, admiring the skyscrapers and an introduction to the underground train system. In our free time that afternoon, Edward & I visited the Meiji Jingu, (Meiji Shrine) built of cedar and set in woodlands. We moved on to the Japanese Sword Museum and then to an amazing view of Tokyo from the top of the government buildings. Luckily, that night was the Asakusa firework festival, and we got an amazing view of from the roof of our hotel. All the younger Japanese are dressed up in kimonos and the street was full of people and street vendors. The fireworks went on for hours, and we soaked up the carnival atmosphere.

Day 4:
Today we visited the Sensoji Temple/Asakusajinja Shrine, where Shinto and Buddhism sit easy, side-by-side, and are often to be found in the same complex. We find the sweet market but they are all full of red bean paste, no chocolate in sight, much to Edward’s disgust. We decided to go shopping for a kitchen knife, in a street which turned out to be lined on both sides with shops for the catering trade. From there we moved on to the ‘electronic’ district, a ‘must’ for any teenagers, although Edward can only look, not buy, as Japanese games don’t work on English machines. Neither, unfortunately, do the mobile phones, which are rather pretty. We then visited a museum complex in the middle of another park and then back via Imperial Palace, although there wasn’t much to see except a moat and walls. Apparently the Palace is only open to visitors two days a year!

Day 5:
Today we visited Hakone, the national park, getting there on the train and then the bus. We crossed Lake Ashi in a fake pirate ship. The biggest disappointment was that Mount Fuji was hidden behind cloud as it is all summer due to the humidity ~ spring and autumn are the best time to see it in all its splendour. We walked the start of the Tokaido Trail, which is lined with wonderful smelling cedars, then visited one of Hakone’s many museums, the ‘outdoor modern art’, leaving Edward totally unimpressed. We took the bus to the guesthouse, where we had to leave our shoes at the door, and don different coloured slippers for entering the loo and the Japanese communal bathroom!

Day 6:
Today we boarded the Bullet train to Kyoto, and found delightful Japanese lunchboxes for sale at the station ...Waitrose, eat your heart out! These were beautifully boxed and full of cold rice, noodles & fish. We drop our things off in Ryokan Shimizu and go on to visit the Kiyomizu Temple complex, and took the optional tour round Geisha district, and Kyoto station.

Day 7:
At Kyoto station we bought the equivalent of a bus pass and then used it to visit Kin Kanji and Ryoanji Temple. I now realise why Zen gardens have no vegetation, only carefully placed stones …. The cicadas make such a racket! Empty gardens are the only chance of peace and quiet for meditation. I also found a small shop that sold Lipton’s yellow label tea and cows milk. Later we decided to to shopping for a kimono/dressing gown and bought Japanese brushes. Unfortunately we got caught in a thunderstorm, although it doesn’t last very long and my umbrella, which I had been using as a sunshade (much to Edward’s embarrassment), finally gets wet, as do we, as it is a really heavy downpour. The temperature is 35° so it isn’t long before we are steaming like the streets as we dry off.

Day 8:
Today we took the train to Nagasaki via Hiroshima and Peace Park. Our visit coincided with the anniversary (well, the day before) of the dropping of the Atom bomb in 1945. We made some paper cranes when asked by Japanese school children and their teacher for a project, and the kids were fascinated by Edward. Foreign adults are one thing but a red-haired boy their own age is something else!

Day 9:
In our hotel in Nagasaki, Edward is impressed by the heated mirror in the bathroom, which doesn’t mist over, and he attempts to work out the instructions on the loo, which he thinks also double as a bidet! We did a walking tour of the city and Glover Gardens, then catch a tram back to the centre where we eat Chinese for lunch.

Day 10:
Today we visited Dejima, a re-creation of the trading post set up in the 19th century. We moved on by train to Sasebo then the ferry to the island of Hirado to visit the Catholic church. Later in the day we ate an elaborate meal at our guesthouse which included raw whale. I didn’t indulge, however Edward remarks the dish as being “oily and chewy”. Glad I didn't try any!

Day 11:
In Hirado, the sightseeing tour of island includes the Whaling museum and lunch on the beach, although you must beware of the jellyfish, as they sting like small electric shocks. As before, the dinner is beautifully laid out, but this time the menu includes a whelk the size of a murex shell! Once again, I can’t face even the thought of it, but Edward attacks his and pronounces it “really chewy”. Well you can’t say he didn’t try!

Day 12:
Today we did a tour of Hirado Castle, as well as a walking tour of the town, before catching the bus and train to Fukuoka.

Day 13:
Flight back home to London.


If you're considering a trip to Japan, you might find these tips useful …

This was an ’escorted tour’ not a ‘guided tour’, so it is important to take guide books if you want detailed information on the places of interest and the monuments. However, the up-side is that you can go and see anything you want and the escort will tell you how to get there, or in some cases, even accompany you, which was extremely helpful.

US dollars are easy to exchange, and I took cash. There are ATM’s at major Post Offices, although Japan runs on cash ~ everywhere always have change. Be particularly aware that plastic cards are accepted in a few places in major towns but don’t rely on them.

In the heat and humidity (now you know why the Japanese make the best air-conditioning units in the world!) water is a must, available everywhere from corner stores and vending machines, as are isotonic drinks. Vending machines are everywhere and a sign of how law-abiding the Japanese are. In London these machines would probably be wrecked and vandalised within days.

EXPLORE buy your rail pass for you, but if you are travelling independently, remember to purchase this before you enter the country as it is only available to tourists. For a flat fee you can travel on as many trains as you like for the duration of the pass, much like a weekly Travelcard on the London Underground.

The trains are wonderful, not only the bullet train but the wholeunderground system. It’s spotlessly clean and air-conditioned. Having said that, everything is air-conditioned, even the buses!

On a more basic note, public toilets can be found everywhere and they are clean and free, and don’t be too confused if you can’t find the flush, a lot of them are programmed to flush automatically on opening the door.

Karen took her trip to Japan in July 2005