Sandra Larsen fulfilled a dream come true to visit Patagonia and Brazil, courtesy of TAM/Senderos, starting in Chile …


WEDNESDAY 19 OCTOBER
Met up with the group for Air France flight to Paris, then transferred to the TAM flight, travelling overnight.

THURSDAY 20 OCTOBER
Arrived on time at 0620 hrs and transferred to our onward flight to Santiago, enjoying spectacular views of the 7,043 m volcano Mt Aconcagua en route. We transferred to the Ritz Carlton for our overnight stay.

There is a new motorway connection from the airport to town, which takes 30 minutes. Bus/subway tickets cost 350 Pesos. There are also plans to re-open the train line that will connect Chile and Argentina in 2010 and the Santiago-Puerto Montt (gateway to Patagonia) is due to be operational next year cutting the journey time from 14 hours to 9 hours.

We were taken to the Hotel Plaza San Francisco for an inspection. The hotel was first built in 1989 and has since become the newest 5-Star luxury hotel in downtown Santiago after undergoing extensive renovation works and remodelling. It is well located in the financial district and close to the pedestrianised shopping areas.

We visited the colonial San Francisco Church (next door to the hotel) which was built in 1586-1628 and is the oldest building in Santiago having withstood several earthquakes. If you like churches, this is one to visit. It has extensive gold decoration reflecting Moorish influences.

We then travelled on via the Cerro Santa Lucia to the Cerro San Cristobal, a 860 m high hill topped with a 15 m high statue of the Virgin Mary. One can take the cable car one way and the funicular the other at a cost of 1500 pesos for the funicular or 1800 pesos for the cable car. On a clear day there are spectacular views of the city although due to the position of the city - surrounded by mountains - clear days are a rarity! Recommended is a Rico Mote con Huesillo (drink of barley & peach juice) which is on sale at the foot of the statue, as well as all the usual tourist tat!

This was followed by a hotel inspection at the Hyatt Regency Hotel. This charming hotel has stunning architecture and beautiful gardens with pools and a children’s play area. It is a short walk away from the Military School subway to downtown.

We returned to the hotel and took in a hotel inspection of the Ritz Carlton. The hotel is located in the capital's most prestigious and refined neighborhood, El Golf. The 205-room hotel is just 30 minutes from Santiago International Airport and within walking distance of exclusive boutiques and restaurants, as well as:

205 guestrooms including 49 Club rooms and Suites, Executive Suites, and a Presidential Suite

7,440 sq ft spa and fitness center with floor to ceiling windows overlooking the Andes and the city

More than 9, 207 square feet of meeting and conference space

The Grand Ballroom with capacity for 300 people

Four restaurants and lounges

24 hour in room dining

We inspected each type of room available – except the Royal Suite – and all were excellently presented, as you would expect of a 5* hotel.

We were hosted by the hotel for dinner in their Adra Restaurant. The menu was billed as a taste of everything Chile has to offer (including wines) and it was excellent. The menu included ceviche and salmon in every shape and form, various meats and desserts. They can also provide cakes for special celebrations.

FRIDAY 21 OCTOBER:
Early start this morning as we transferred to Balmaceda (via Puerto Montt). Our journey to Puyuhuapi Lodge was via the Carretera Austral. This road was inaugurated by General Pinochet in 1979 but the final section was not completed until 1996. In view of the terrain it covers, it is an engineering feat. Journey time approx 7 hours. The journey had to be undertaken by minibus because the road is not big enough for coaches and the road was mainly on gravel! It was a very long and tiring journey but it was worth every mile because the scenery was so spectacular through beautiful landscapes of dense forests, cliffs and mountains. Passing through the grasslands of the Aysen region through what are the burnt remains of what was once forests which were cleared to colonise the area. On one section they are replacing the road (which has almost eroded away) with a bridge and this is due for completion in 2006. It is possible to travel by the Patagonia Express Catamaran from Balmaceda to Puyahuapi which takes 5 hours or alternatively charter a plane (1½ hrs – cost unknown!)

En route we did a site inspection of the Minchos Lodge, offering ten rooms and accommodating up to 28 persons. A very comfortable, home-from-home, family run lodge. Here you can go fishing, or enjoy horseback riding, hiking, mountain biking, rafting, photographing, agro-tourism, etc.

On arrival at the Union River Dock we were then transferred by boat (10 minutes) across the fjord to the Puyuhuapi Lodge nestling on the shores of the sea.

The Lodge & Spa is a beautiful building that blends in with its surroundings using the local architectural style of the Island of Chiloé with wood, stone and wooden shingles and steep roofs. Every area of the lodge is designed to face the sea to take advantage of the spectacular views of the bay. www.patagonia-connection.com. In Puyuhuapi three types of water come together – the saltwater from the Pacific Ocean, the hot spring water and pure crystalline water from the local waterfalls. All the Lodge’s hot water is thermal.

It should be pointed out that all the staff at the lodge have come from difficult/troubled backgrounds and are employed to give them a second chance. It seems to be working because all the staff were excellent. All wines and soft drinks are included. After dinner, drinks and coffee were served in the lounge area in front of a roaring log fire. Needless to say, we all retired to bed fairly early because tomorrow was another day!

SATURDAY 22 OCTOBER:
Today we undertook our first hike into the Queulat National Park. This was an extremely demanding hike as we climbed through dense forest on a path that had just been hacked out of the thick undergrowth as we climbed up the mountain to the snowline! We were the first visitors this season and the path had only been opened up two days before we arrived so it was very much work in progress. Once we got out of the forest, there ahead was a hundred yards of huge rocks to be navigated and then round the corner was a frozen lake. Extremely spectacular but extremely tiring!!!

SATURDAY 22 OCTOBER:
We then set off back down the mountain. Just when the ground started opening up we heard what sounded like a didgeridoo in the trees. This was to warn of our approach because once we came into a small clearing there were three tables set with tableclothes, napkins, glasses and some glorious canapé all accompanied by excellent wine. A more welcome (and surprising) sight is not possible!!

Upon our return to the lodge, we had a look round the Spa. This was excellent timing because we were able to refresh our aching limbs in the pools. There is a choice of three indoor pools – cold seawater (and I mean COLD), hot and even hotter (98F) and you have to start with the cold, working up to the hottest which also has two Jacuzzis. Also available are Thalassotherapy treatments, facial treatments and various massages and a steam sauna.

We were then taken out by boat to an isolated bay to a floating pontoon on which was laid out Afternoon Tea, whereupon we enjoyed a delightful spread of assorted cakes, tea, coffee and dessert wine whilst enjoying the peace and solitude (we sat in silence for several minutes and it was wonderful). This is something that is offered to guests who are celebrating a special event – honeymooners, anniversaries etc. The guests are given a radio phone and then left to enjoy peace and solitude only calling when they want to return. A marvellous experience as the pontoon is totally isolated and the view of mountain, forests, birdlife and, if you are lucky, dolphins is fantastic.

On our return to the Lodge we had an inspection of the facilities. The plan is to have as many as possible of the rooms facing the water. There are 16 Superior Rooms, 14 Standard, 2 Cabins (6 person), 2 Capitanie and 2 Duplex (1 room for parents and one up a ladder for for 2 children over 10 years). The so-called ‘forest view’ do not really have a view so it is recommended to have lake view.

SUNDAY 23 OCTOBER
Today we enjoyed our second visit to the Queulat National Park, this time to see the ‘hanging glacier’. There were two options to see the glacier …. climbing another mountain or taking a boat across the lake. After yesterday’s exercise, I opted for the second and it was by far the better option. We started by visiting the Fiordo Queulat Lodge to familiarise ourselves with the local fauna and flora, we then walked (fairly easy) for half an hour before boarding a small dinghy which took us across Risopatron Lake to the foot of the mountain from where one could observe the Ventisquero Colgante (Hanging Glacier). The glacier was discovered in 1875 (it is approx 24,000 years old) and at that time it was 100 metres from the shore. It is now 7,800 metres (25,584 ft) inland. If you opt for the other option, it is a 4 mile/2 hour climb to the observation point.

We transferred back to the Lodge and were then taken by boat into the forest on the other side of the lake where an Asado was awaiting us. As it was Spring and the weather unpredictable, they had erected a huge plastic marquee (the plastic allowed you to feel as though you were in the open air) and we were served a fantastic feast of barbequed fish, meat and salads with copious amounts of wine.

MONDAY 24 OCTOBER:
We had an early morning start and checked out of the Lodge to board the Patagonia Express Catamaran for the cruise to the San Rafael Glacier. The catamaran was designed and built especially for navigating the waters of the Patagonia, offering safe and comfortable travel with a crew with vast experience in sailing the channels of the region. Each person has a comfortable Pullman seat with excellent legroom. All drinks (including spirits) are free and we were served three excellent meals during the 7 hour cruise (breakfast, lunch and a dinner).

This is a truly spectacular cruise navigating through the archipelagos and Tèmpano River with unforgettable scenery – the majestic snow-topped Andes Mountains, blanketed with luxuriant forests and the blue waters. Two and a half hours into the journey we reached Puerto Aguirre – a group of islands. An interesting feature here is the local cemetery because all the graves are above ground in little houses. This is because all this area was formerly a glacier so graves can’t be dug.

As we drew nearer to the glacier, huge blue & white icebergs which had broken off the glacier floated by as a taster for the treat ahead.

The Glacier is 30,000 years old, 45 kms long, 3 kms wide and 120 metres thick. It is impressive to see large blocks of ice breaking off the glacier with a loud crack and falling into the water. It is spooky to note that the birds seem to know when this is going to happen as they appear shortly before and wait to catch the fish that are disturbed by the activity. The glacier has receded 1km since 1989 and is estimated to be retreating by 200 m per year. Words cannot do justice to the breathtaking scenery and purity of the air.

We were divided into groups of eight and fitted out with our ‘Mae Wests’ before boarding our Scorpio (inflatable dinghy). We then negotiated through the ice-flows - some of which towered over us and were bumping into the boat - to within 50 metres of the glacier …. It was awe-inspiring. One of the boats gathered up a couple of large iceblocks and once back on board we were offered a libation ‘over the rocks’ which was this millennial ice !

We then continued our cruise back to Chacabuco where we arrived at 2230 pm. We were then transferred to the Gran Hotel Colonos del Sur for an overnight stay.

TUESDAY 25 OCTOBER
Early morning transfer to Balmaceda Airport for flight to Puerto Montt with LanChile. From there we transferred to Puerto Varas.

Puerto Varas is situated on the south-west shore of Lake Llanquihue, 20 km. from Puerto Montt and there is much evidence of German colonization in local architecture. The volcanoes Calvuco and Osorno are visible on the horizon. In the afternoon we explored the town which was extremely walkable.

In the evening we had a rather bizarre inspection. We were taken out (15 minute) to a beautiful house – Quincho Guesthouse. They hosted us for the evening in order to get our input on how they should be marketing the property. It was formerly a private residence and the owner, Christian, was one of our hosts. They want it to be a home-from-home where you can either take the whole house (six/seven bedrooms) or share it. Food would be prepared as and when required by your own chef and a car available for transfers around the area. The house is located right on the lake with excellent fishing available. We had a most enjoyable evening with wonderful food.

WEDNESDAY 26 OCTOBER
Today we set off on an exciting journey across the Andes by public bus. We were transferred to the local bus station in time to catch the 0900 bus. The bus was excellent, comfortable seats and good legroom. The journey was spectacular as we climbed higher and higher into the Andes. We actually went through an area that still had thick snow.

The only down side to the journey is crossing the border between Chile and Argentina which is very time consuming. On arrival at the Chile border post we had to get off the bus and queue to have our passports examined which took about 20 minutes. We then drove through what I assume is no-man’s land for about ten minutes before reaching the Argentinian border. Once again we had to get off the coach and this time all our luggage was also taken off the coach and lined up and the coach searched. Another 10/15 minutes to pass through passport control and then some of the bags were selected for inspection – mine included! This took another fifteen minutes and they had also removed some stuff from the bus for closer inspection.