Tunisia

We arrived mid-evening at the first host hotel of our trip, the 5* Sindbad Hotel in Hammamet. Our rooms were a delight … Wrought iron furniture and pretty yellow bed linens and curtains, strewn with fresh flowers from the gardens. Each room had ample storage for clothes and a dressing table, and out via the back exit was an outside terrace with a table and two chairs, and a pathway leading down through the gardens, past the ornate aviary, and down to the beach. The beach stretched a long way; about a mile to the Medina in Hammamet to the left, and off into the distance to the right. During our tour of the suites and other areas of the hotel, we were told that the bedroom furniture was to be replaced with dark wood, trying to go into a more Oriental style, which we all thought was a pity because we liked the wrought iron. The bungalow suites, with 4-poster beds, were delightful and had separate sitting area and their own private terrace and sun-bathing area. Other areas to be re-designed were the hotel's little bazaar and the main dining room.

The breakfast buffet was typically continental, and a further feature of the hotel was the tranquil Djinn Bar, just off the entrance lobby, where the head waiter made delicious cocktails. For dining, one can chose between Les Voiliers restaurant down by the beach, both inside and on the delighful terrace, the Chiraz á la carte restaurant beside the pool, and also the main restaurant, the Sheherazade. There is also Pub 19, but I think this is part of the refurbishment programme. In summary, lovely accommodation in a quiet and tranquil setting, very close to Hammammet town, and once the improvements and renovations are made during the next few months, the hotel would better justify its 5* rating. (www.hotel-sindbad.com)

During the course of the next week we visited many hotels, some of which were very similar, and conversely, some were quite spectacular. In many cases the food lacked imagination in the buffet selection, although most tastes were catered for. The staff were generally very attentive and certainly tried to make you feel welcome. However, I’m going to concentrate on those properties that stuck in my mind, and the reasons why …..

The 5* Royal Azur, located close to the medina in old Hammamet, had a stunningly elaborately decorated Moorish-style à la carte restaurant, in which we enjoyed a delicious 4-course dinner, accompanied by some traditional belly-dancing. The best of three properties, including the 3* Bel Azur and the 4* Sol Azur Beach, all facilities can be shared, including the excellent Thalassotherapy Centre with fitness room.

Inspired by the Alhambra Palace in Granada, the trendy 5* Maritim Alhambra Thalasspa brings together the architecture of both Moorish and Andalucian design. This property had an elegant sophistication, with clean lines and excellent attention to detail. Spacious and airy, some rooms were without balconies but had additional seating within a bay window, and all had a separate WC and bathroom. The main restaurant, the Alcazar, offers buffet-style dining, while the Granada serves Mediterranean specialities and pizza. In the summer, there is a BBQ restaurant near the outdoor pool, the Seville, and the Marbella, located near the beach. Several bars and a Moorish café complete the refreshment options. The outdoor pool has sunloungers, parasols and towels. Although there is a separate kiddie’s pool, playground and baby-sitting service, this hotel is perhaps a little refined for all but the very best-behaved children! The hotel benefits from a private sandy beach, again with sunloungers, mattresses and canopies, as well as some sports activities. If your idea of activity is to play a few rounds of golf, three 18-hole courses are at your disposal within a short distance, accessible by free shuttle service, all offering Par 72 , as well as a 9-hole course at Golf Yasmine. The Thalassotherapy Centre was amazing, with Hammam (Turkish bath), fitness centre, solarium, variety of massages and wellness treatments, with water beds in the relaxation area, as well as an indoor pool, a beauty centre and hairdressing salon. (www.alhambra-thalasso.com)

The 5* Le Royal Hammamet is one of the most requested hotels in Cadogan’s programme, and its easy to see why! Situated in colourful and spacious gardens at the northern end of Yasmine Hammamet and close to the Marina, and with direct access to a beautiful sandy beach, this property offers standard rooms overlooking the lovely gardens, whilst the superior rooms have the benefit of a pool and sea view. In addition, there are 4 traditional houses ~ Menzel ~ that are available on request. Within the grounds are four pools, two tennis courts and a Wellness Centre, with plans to introduce a full Spa soon.

For drinking and dining, several options are possible: The Dana Club, currently being renovated, is a seafood restaurant close to the beach, used in the summer; The Capri is an à la carte restaurant serving lunch and dinner, specialising in Italian dishes, whilst the Al Hambra also serves à la carte dishes, but more international in flavour. There is a relaxed lobby bar and a Moorish café, as well as a poolside bar in season. The Wellness Centre, offering Hammam, sauna, massage treatments and jacuzzi, as well as a small gym and indoor pool. Entertainment is readily available during the summer, and the hotel also has a very popular Kid’s Club. Special golf rates and packages can also be organised for clients at Le Royal. (www.leroyal-hammamet.com)

Also at Yasmine Hammamet, with architecture reflecting Tunisian and modern art styles, the 5* Sofitel Saphir Palace Hotel is situated on the seafront at Yasmine Hammamet, with a private section of the beach located just over the road for its clients. Officially opened late 2005, the superior rooms have balconies and separate wc and bathroom, and overlook the sea, the gardens or the pool. The Junior Suites have a sitting area and separate sleeping area, with a panoramic view from the window and balcony. There is a Prestige Suite, and all I can say is …Wow!! This suite has three bedrooms, each with its own bathroom and jacuzzi, accessed via a circular marble staircase, leading up from the sitting/dining room. The sitting room is painted white, with large white sofas, marble floors and floor-to-ceiling windows, although no balcony.

The Sofitel has superb Spa facilities with every treatment catered for, as well as an indoor pool and gym. There are three restaurants ~ Le Restaurant Yasmine, offering an excellent international buffet or dining from a set menu, Le Voile D’Or, the à la carte restaurant, specialising in Mediterranean dishes, and Le Palmier, a BBQ located by the poolside and open in the summer ~ and twice as many bars, three of which serve snacks! The hotel also boasts a nightclub! Outside, there is a freshwater pool area, with some leisure activities available either by the pool or on the fine sandy beach, with many more on hand close-by. (www.sofitel.com)

The 5* Deluxe Hasdrubal Thalassa and Spa is one of the ‘Leading Hotels of the World’, and it sits in a class of its own. Grand marble arches and porticoes lead into the entrance lobby, crystal chandaliers, sweeping staircases and water fountains decorate the main lobby, and fine art decks the walls of this stylish and ultra-modern property. Outside, the architecture has been created to represent the vastness of Roman thermal baths, so it’s no surprise that water is a key feature of the design. Tucked away within the grounds is the Villa Salammbô*, the largest hotel suite in the world, comprising four individual apartments, each with a large bedroom and en-suite bathroom and jacuzzi. The villa has a large elegant sitting room, large dining room, office and even its own private Spa. With private indoor and outdoor pools, Villa Salammbo is for someone who really wants total privacy.

The Thalassatheropy Centre has 26 water-based massage cabins, as well as 16 massage cabins, an aromatherapy room, an indoor pool, separate hammams and saunas for men and women. Truly, every treatment can be taken here. The hotel offers 210 suites, all immaculately presented, with the usual facilities you would expect of a 5* deluxe hotel. Three restaurants offer fine dining from Tunisian to international dishes, as well as Il Delfino for anyone watching their diet! Other dining options include an outdoor restaurant for breakfast, two BBQ’s, one at the beach and one by the pool, available in season only, as well as a Moorish Café, and two bars offering a wide choice of beverages and cocktails. Staying at the Hasdrubal for a unique occasion, perhaps a honeymoon or special anniversary, would truly be unforgettable. (www.hasdrubal-hotel.com)
* Salammbô is a novel by Gustave Flaubert, and a settlement just south of Carthage, where, according to legend, many children were sacrificed to the Punic gods then buried in the notorious cemetary of Tophet.

All of the hotels mentioned above have a selection of suites, ranging from Junior Suites right up to the Villa Salaambô, for that extra bit of luxury.

Finally, our last two nights were spent at the 4* Le Sultan at Hammamet, and we all wished our stay could’ve been longer. The hotel adopted a cruise liner theme, with sails decorating the main restaurant ceiling, staff dressed as Officers or sailors, and white handrails and portholes introduced into the décor. The rooms were decorated in blue and white, with light marble bathrooms and white-painted hand rails on the balconies overlooking the lush gardens and out to the sea. The buffet selection for dinner in Le Serail was plentiful and offered the most varied selection of traditional Tunisian dishes than I had seen all week, as well as traditional dishes. Additional facilities included a small but relaxing Spa, offering massages in Asian-inspired cabins, hammam, sauna, fitness gym and beauty centre, as well as an indoor pool. Close to the outdoor pool was the Moorish Café and a beach BBQ, used only in the summer. (www.lesultan.com)

I think Tunisia is a great destination if you want to spend a week in the warm sunshine, relaxing by the pool, maybe taking in a Spa treatment or two, and a spot of haggling in a local Bazaar. There are a few historical sites well worth a visit, in particular the 3rd Century Roman Amphitheatre at El Jem, the largest Roman monument in Africa. Located 70 kms south of Sousse, although slightly smaller than the Colesseum, the amphitheatre is every bit as well preserved, and was thought to house up to 35,000 people for gladiatorial performances. It is possible to walk through the underground pits where the wild animals were kept in their cages until they were elevated on wooden platforms, up into the arena, to do battle. Nowadays, the amphitheatre is used in the summer months for concerts of symphonic music, and I imagine this would be an amazing experience.

Once the largest city in Africa, Carthage was first settled by the Phoenicians and then conquered by the Romans, who built theatres, baths and a gladiator arena, the remains of which are well worth a visit, along with the museums that tell the story of this once great capital of the ancient world. One should not forget that Hannibal, the famous Carthaginian general who defied the Romans and who crossed the Alps with elephants, was the person who got closest to destroying the famous Roman Empire!

If you are based a little further south, you might like to consider a trip into the dessert; although we didn’t have time to experience one of these for ourselves, I gather they are easily arranged. The main roads in the country are fine for long distances, although in the towns there don’t seem to be many rules of the road!

Spa treatments of all types are readily available in most of the resorts visited, and with the prices being a fraction of what you would be used to paying in the UK, a relaxing treatment or two would happily complement your holiday.

No trip to Tunisia would be complete with a spot of shopping in the local markets ~ souks ~ where you are expected to haggle. Some excellent bargains are to be had, especially with jewellery, leatherwear, especially sandals and bags of all shapes and sizes, and of course, the Tunisian artefacts, such as the chicha (hubble-bubble) pipes, if you should feel inclined to stow this away with your luggage.

The temperatures can get very high in the summer months, but it is pleasantly hot during the Spring and Autumn, and showery during the winter. Travel time is only 2½ hours from the UK, so this would even be a good place to visit for a 4 or 5 day break.

For the full range of hotel accommodation in Tunisia available through Cadogan Holidays, please click here to email one of our consultants, or Gill for her personal advice.

Gill visited Tunisia at the end of November 2006.