
Two individual trips last July and August saw Edwin Doran and Andrew Loughlin sampling the sights, sounds and savouries of Latin America. We begin with Argentina... During my whistle-stop visit to BUENOS AIRES, I am staying overnight in the Hotel Bel Air, a very pleasant hotel, centrally located. I am only here for one night, so I am taken to a tango show in the evening. It is in Boedo, in Esquina Homero Manzi, on the corner of San Juan and Boedo. This is a very authentic establishment, and the singers and dancers are excellent, although the food isn't that good. Best to eat first and arrive about 8.30 – the show lasts until midnight. If I'd had more time, I am told the Recoleta is a good place for exploring and wandering around the famous and very old cemetery, trying to spot the resting places of the country's rich and famous! There are many restaurants and shops in this area - you should try and find some time to dine on the obligatory empanada and sample some vino tinto during your visit. Save a day for doing some shopping, which the city is famous for. The more exclusive shops are around the Recoleta area, and Av. Alvear, and the Patio Bullrich shopping centre is also very good. Also worth a look are the colourful houses in La Boca. My next stop is SALTA* in the north of the country. I am staying at the 4* Hotel Solar de la Plaza, which is a gorgeous old colonial home located near the heart of the city. The lounge is like a sitting room in a house, and has a small discrete bar. The rooms are built around the atrium and are extremely comfortable. There is a small pool on the top with a sundeck and sauna. The restaurant served very good food in a lovely atmosphere. I'd heard the place for the best pubs and restaurants are around the area of Av. Balcarce, close to the station, and I came across Pirata, which was very Argentinean, and for wine, water, starter, and two main courses, we found it to be excellent value at $40 (£8 in total). A good place to go out late in the evening is Calle Balcarce in the heart of town. The next day I took a walk around the town, and passed a market in Balcarce, which has lovely jewellery, and then went in search of some empanadas, the national food. I found a place called La Cuecha just off the Plaza de 9 Maio, and for lunch I had four plus a beer, at a total cost equivalent to £1.20!! Heading south, I find myself in CORDOBA, where I stayed in the 5* Cordoba Plaza, a classic Spanish hotel. My bedroom was huge, in total contrast to the bathroom that was miniscule and claustrophobic. The staff were friendly and helpful, and their English acceptable but limited, however I would say the star rating is not up to European standards. By contrast, The Hotel Claridge is superb. A large warm reception area, super bar and restaurant. The rooms are well decorated, the bathrooms well-stocked and there is even a health club with its own restaurant offering ‘healthy eating' options. ****************** Andrew Loughlin on his trip also took in Salta which is the departure point of the ‘Train to the Clouds', or Trans a las Nubes, which meanders through the mountains via tunnels, bridges, viaducts and bends, all the way to the Polvorilla viaduct. The train leaves at 0700 and returns at 2200, and travels up to 4200 metres, via switchbacks and loops, to make its way up the narrow gauge on the side on the Andes Mountains. The scenery is stunning, with changes in vegetation and rock colouring as you transverse through the clouds and beyond. There is on-board commentary (in Spanish and English) and meals, booked on board for $15 (£3) or snacks. The viaducts make for some wonderful tourist shots, and there are opportunities to buy some local products from the local Indian population at your stop at the journey's end in San Antonia. It's an idea to take some smaller change with them for the local kids, who ask for a peso or two for photos with goats, sheep, them, etc. We thought the journey home would be a bit of a drag, but after a short sleep, some food and drink, we were entertained on board by a local band. Packing a few bottles of champagne and wine for the journey gave a great ending to the day, and not to be missed, if you have the time, at $189 per person (£38). Andrew moves on to Mendoza and Puerto Iguazu click here. |
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