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Our intrepid explorer Sandra Larsen was off again - this time to visit magical Morocco in October...

The trip started with a nerve-racking ride through Marrakech with hundreds of mopeds and cycles ridden by people with a death wish. Riad Noga is down a scruffy alley but passing through the decorative door is like entering another world. Riads are all ex-private villas that have been converted into small hotels.

Essential is a tour of the city taking in the Ali Ben Youssef Mosque, the Mellah (jewish quarter) and the Palais de la Bahia – recently renovated with wonderful examples of mosaics and carvings - and the Jardin Majorelle - lush gardens currently owned by Yves St. Laurent and a haven of peace and colour in the middle of this hectic town.

Then the hubbub of the Medina , a fascinating experience. The souq is divided into sections devoted to different produce – leather, lights, material, bakery, butchery etc., a herbalist (which was fascinating) and a carpet merchant – be prepared for the hard sell. A tip for shopping - visit the Ensemble Artisenals (government sponsored shops) because these have fixed prices so if you want to bargain in the souq, you have some idea of the right price!

Tonight the Djemaa el Fna by night, an amazing sight with food stalls in the middle and all around people offering to tell your fortune, cure all your ills (with an amazing array of herbs, pills and potions), story-tellers, musicians, acrobats & snake charmers (if you don't like snakes steer clear of hypnotic pipe music).

Next day the Atlas Mountains via the Tizi n Tichka - throughout our trip we were impressed with the excellent roads. The scenery was amazing - one minute the road climbs a steep mountainside then down into lush, fertile valleys with palm and every kind of fruit trees then up again to descend into a desert and on to El Kelaâ M'Gouna in the Vallée des Roses, the centre for the distillation of rosewater for the perfume industry.

On to Ouarzazate an extremely affluent town due to the ever-growing film industry based in the area (Lawrence of Arabia, James Bond etc and the soon to be released Alexander the Great). Lunch in the Restaurant la Kasbah overlooking the Taourit Kasbah one of the largest in the area formerly inhabited by the Glaoui Tribe who in their hey day in the 1930s ruled this area mainly by running a protection racket!!

Then on to Skoura overnight at the Kasbah Ben Moro - an authentic 17 th century kasbah in the oasis of Skoura restored using traditional craftsmen and materials/

Off to the Dadès Gorge in the area known as the Valley of 1000 Kasbahs. Overnight at Chez Pierre located at the start of the Dadès Gorge and virtually built into the cliff. Amazing scenery. After breakfast the 380 kms drive to Zagora through the Drâa Valley , a ribbon of technicoloured palmeraies, kasbahs and Berber villages and overnight at the Kasbah Asmaa with its fabulous gardens including Berber tents laid out under sprawling palm trees for a nomadic night's dining under the stars.

This morning a fascinating visit to Tamegroute consisting of inter-connected ksars – a rabbit warren virtually underground. We visited one of the homes climbing in darkness through a series of cave-like rooms to the ‘living room' to find in the corner a television (with satellite!). In the centre is the zawiya (mosque) with its famous library of some 4,000 Arabic and Muslim books from the 11-15 th century. From Tamegroute we drove out to the Tinfou Dunes – not as spectacular as the Merzouga Dunes but certainly worth a visit.

4,000 Arabic and Muslim books from the 11-15 th century. From Tamegroute we drove out to the Tinfou Dunes – not as spectacular as the Merzouga Dunes but certainly worth a visit.On to meet our camels for a tortuous couple of hours riding through the desert - an terrifying ride down steep dunes. At the Berber settlement we were greeted by the tribe leader and musicians playing drums and pipes. After a stroll around the surrounding dunes watching the sunset, an excellent Berber Dinner under the stars. A bonfire was built outside the tent and with music and entertainment a very interesting evening eventually came to an end. An amazing starlit night.

After a fascinating visit to the weekly market at Zagora, we visited Ait Benhaddou, several small fortresses and kasbahs, each stretching some ten metres into the air dating from the 11-15 th centuries and the location of many films including 'The English Patient'.

Back in Marrakech for our last night and dinner at the Restaurant Marakechi where we enjoyed traditional food and gnawa music – a blend of Arabic & Berber.

Morocco is an excellent destination for anyone who wants to experience something different. It is a Muslim country but with a very European attitude. The accommodation is varied – Riad, Kasbah, Ksar, Hotel - and the quality of food excellent

One last word - anyone contemplating riding a camel should be warned how uncomfortable (and frightening) it can be!

 

 

 


Desert landscape scenes
Romantic Desert landscape scenes

Zagora Camels
Zagora Camels

Atlas Mountains
Atlas Mountains

Tamegroute
Fascinating Tamegroute

The Dadès Gorge
The Dadès Gorge

Tamegroute

Typical Moroccan landscape

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